Shinagawa-shuku Preserves the Culture of Tokaido Avenue
During the Edo Period (1603-1868), the Tokaido road prospered as the main route that connected Edo (modern-day Tokyo), where the Tokugawa shogun lived, and Kyoto, where the emperor resided. Along the way, there were 53 towns called shukuba (post stations) with lodgings and teahouses. Bustling with people who traveled in and out, the essence of these stations was portrayed in ukiyo-e artist Hiroshige Utagawa's famous woodblock prints called "The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido." Today, it is said that there were 57 post stations, including Moriguchi-shuku in Osaka.
Shinagawa-shuku is the first shukuba when departing Nihonbashi, which is the starting point of the Tokaido in Tokyo. Today, neighboring Shinagawa is surrounded by skyscrapers and is a hub for Shinkansen and other trains. However, traces of the distant past can be seen in the area that stretches between nearby Kitashinagawa and Aomonoyokocho known as "the Old Tokaido Shinagawa-shuku." This is because neighborhood association, local stores, businesses, and administrations have made combined efforts to maintain the townscape by preserving its history and culture. Town planning is tentatively scheduled to be carried out for the next 20 to 30 years. We will introduce several places of interest in Shinagawa-shuku.
Shinagawa-shuku Koryukan is a multi-complex facility that encompasses a tourist information center, a rental gallery, a multipurpose space, and a penny candy store, where everyone from children to the elderly to visitors from abroad visit. Sometimes, people drop by with huge backpacks, having traveled on foot from Kyoto along the Tokaido. The candy store, named "Mata-ashita," is managed by Ms. Sato who always watches out for children in the community.
Shinagawa Koryukan / Dagashiya Mata-ashita
Location: 2-28-19 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: 03-3472-4772
Opening hours: 10:00-17:00 (Closing time may change)
Closed: Mondays (If Monday is a holiday, Tuesday is closed.)
The owner of the used bookstore called Kaido Bunko, Mr. Tanaka, is an avid walker and expert on kaido (roads) dating from the Edo Period. He has visited them across the country while collecting books regarding their history and construction, and opened a secondhand bookstore that also operates as a consultation center for those interested in walking these historical routes. With a belief that "kaido are filled with the history of all sorts of things," he volunteers as a tourist guide of the town on holidays. Despite owning a bookstore, he is not so eager to sell his books because they are his treasures that he has collected during his travels.
Kaido Bunko (consultation center for walking on kaido)
Location: 101 Heights Shinagawa, 2-6-12 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: 03-6433-0349
Irregular holidays.
Another charm of Shinagawa-shuku is that it supports mothers who are raising children by operating various initiatives. At Shinagawa-shuku Idobata, mothers can relax with their kids while taking part in many events such as seminars and workshops catered to parents and children. Idobata Shokudo is a restaurant that is open for lunch twice a week where mothers can enjoy eating at their leisure. Nearby, there is also a playground called Play Park, where children are encouraged to play responsibly by themselves. Staff called "play workers" help children play freely and safely.
Shinagawa-shuku Idobata
Location: 2-3-20 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: 090-2459-4117
Opening hours of Idobata Shokudo: Thursdays and Fridays (excluding holidays) 11:30-15:00
https://mama-katsu.com/idobata/
If you get tired of walking, take a break at KAIDO books & coffee. The second floor serves as a consignment store of Kaido Bunko, where visitors can read precious books collected by Mr. Tanaka while tasting carefully selected coffee. With the aim of encouraging more people to depart on trips from Shinagawa, the first post station on the Tokaido, the cafe often holds events and exhibitions in collaboration with local government and embassies.
KAIDO books & coffee
Location: 1F Maruya Bldg, 2-3-7 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: 03-6433-0906
Opening hours: Weekdays: 10:30-22:00; weekends and holidays: 10:30-19:00
Closed: Tuesdays
http://kaido.tokyo/index.html
Once an old business hotel named Kiyomiso, Guesthouse Shinagawa-shuku has been renovated and also serves as a tourist information center. Many tourists from abroad stay here as it is English-language friendly. Its wall is full of letters and cards that express the gratitude of its guests.
Guesthouse Shinagawa-shuku
Location: 1-22-16 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: 03-6712-9440
Check-in: 16:00-22:00
Check-out: 7:00-10:00
http://bp-shinagawashuku.com/jp/
Opened in autumn of 2017, SURUTOCO is a workshop where you can create your own original silkscreen prints by designing a plate to print using various inks and materials. Plain T-shirts and tote bags are available for purchase, but you can bring in your own materials to print on as well.
SURUTOCO
Location:2F Kinokuniya Bldg., 2-28-15 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-6718-4522 (reservation is required)
Opening: 11:00-19:00
Closed: Wednesdays
http://jam-p.com/surutoco/
For souvenir shopping, consider buying some specialty sweets of Shinagawa-shuku. Shinagawa Kasho Kyo-an's signature product is Shukuba Roll, which is a roll cake that comes in three flavors: matcha, vanilla, and chocolate. For those who prefer Japanese sweets, head to Okashitsukasa Kimuraya, founded in 1892. It is fun to take a stroll while munching on mitarashi dango (skewered dumplings drizzled with a sweet soy sauce glaze).
Shinagawa Kasho Kyo-an
Location: 1F, 2-30-27 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: 03-3471-6395
Opening hours: 9:30-20:00
Closed: Tuesdays
http://kyo-an.net/
Okashitsukasa Kimuraya
Location: 2-9-23 Kitashinagawa, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: 03-3471-3762
Opening hours: 8:30-18:30
Closed: Wednesdays
All year round, there are various events that take place in Shinagawa-shuku. You can ride a hot air balloon, shop at an antique market at the Shinagawa Canal Festival in April, watch a parade of a portable shrine at the annual festival of Shinagawa Shrine and Ebara Shrine in June, and witness the procession of oiran (courtesans) and people dressed in Edo-style costumes at the Shinagawa Shukuba Festival in September. The Docu-Memento Film Festival, which was launched by young filmmakers in 2017, is also held. The townscape of Shinagawa-shuku offers a warm and nostalgic feeling thanks to the efforts of young and old who are working hand in hand to protect the culture of kaido.
*This article was posted on the Life in Tokyo website operated by the Tokyo International Communication Committee on March 12, 2018.